Why MOQ is the wrong first question

Almost every first email we receive from a new buyer asks the same thing: what is your minimum order quantity? It is an understandable question and a slightly unhelpful one, because MOQ is not a single number. It is an output of several other decisions, and asking for it before those decisions are made usually produces a defensive answer that helps nobody.

The honest version is this: MOQ exists because of set-up cost. Every colourway needs a dye lot. Every new shape needs a die. Every new relief needs the loom set up. Those costs do not care whether you order 200 pieces or 2,000, so the smaller the order, the more of that fixed cost each piece has to carry.

Which means the useful question is not "what is your MOQ" but "what drives your MOQ, and which of those things can I flex?"

What actually drives the number

We work to low, flexible MOQs and would genuinely rather start a relationship with a small first order than lose it over a threshold. But the way to get the lowest number is to reduce colourways first, then work from an existing construction — not to negotiate the number in isolation.

A realistic timeline, start to shipped

The single most common planning error is underestimating the front half. Sampling takes longer than buyers expect and production takes about as long as they expect. Here is a realistic shape for a first programme.

Add it up and a first programme from brief to warehouse is realistically four to five months. A repeat order on an approved specification is far quicker — often eight to ten weeks including transit, because sampling and approvals are already done.

Working backwards from your season

Take your on-shelf date and subtract. If you want stock landed for a spring reset in March, you are placing the bulk order in November and starting sampling in September. Buyers who approach us in January for a March delivery are, in practice, asking for an air-freighted repeat of something that already exists.

This matters most around two fixed points in the calendar. Chinese New Year does not affect Indian production directly, but it congests shipping and container availability across Asia. And the weeks around Diwali see reduced output at Indian factories. Plan around both rather than discovering them.

How to make sampling faster

Sampling time is the part of the timeline most under your control, and most buyers unknowingly slow it down.

Closing thought

Nobody enjoys the MOQ conversation, on either side of it. But it becomes a much easier one when it stops being a negotiation over a number and becomes a discussion about colourways, constructions and lead time. Tell a supplier what you are actually trying to launch and when, and a sensible answer usually follows.

If you have a season in mind, work backwards from the on-shelf date and start the conversation earlier than feels necessary. It is the cheapest thing you can do to protect a programme.